This post is about flying over Iceland. Over the past five years my focus has mostly been on aerial photography, something I started to think about during my first few visits to Iceland almost 10 years ago when I was taking photographs on the ground. From my experience of mountain trekking I knew that the view from the top is unbeatable, so, I had to try shooting from the air and this was only encouraged by amazing shots by those lucky few (those pre-drone era days) who managed to see and capture fractals of Icelandic braided rivers, abstract patterns and the colours of Africa and South America etc.
In 2017 I was lucky to meet a wonderful human and pilot, who was also an excellent photographer, and later become a great friend, the late Haraldur Diego ( @volcanopilot ); flying with him changed my life and photography. Sadly, Haraldur tragically died last winter, so this narrative is partly aimed to put some of those wonderful visual and emotional memories together and hopefully to give some encouragement and advice to those who are keen to try aerial photography and want to get airborne with their camera, so this will be a long story with about ninety images taken during different flights over the last four years :)
The uniqueness of the views, the ever-changing patterns of landscape and light and fast changing scenery all make aerial photography very challenging, but also very rewarding. The views from above in Iceland are like views from a different planet and often have an other-worldly feel about them. Sometimes they look like a vascular system, nature repeats its patterns, and sometimes like a giant neuronal network laid out on the ground. Seeing and photographing from the air is both a challenge and an immense pleasure and privilege.
At first, on your first couple of flights, everything happens very fast, perhaps too fast. You have no time to see everything coming at you and you barely have time to frame, compose and change the settings on your camera and lens. With time, playing with light and composing from a fast moving aeroplane becomes great fun and even when you take a few fly-overs, typically in circles, over a specific area that caught your eye and mind, it never really looks the same, as the light and shadows from the clouds and mountains move. You can gain or drop some altitude and so the angle of view and the shot(s) changes too and with them your feelings and ideas about how to frame the shot.
One can do aerial photography from either small aeroplanes or helicopters. You can find more useful information here written by Haraldur a while ago, I won’t repeat what was written by the Master, albeit reiterate some messages from the photographer/passenger point of view. I have excluded drones from my list, as this narrative is about flying and shooting, not operating a flying device from a ground position. Drones can be a great fun, especially when using longer exposures, but they are way behind in terms of camera and sensor quality and do not come even close when it comes to the feeling of flight.
Before the flight - For photography purposes try to get a Cessna type plane rather then a Piper type. The former has windows that can open to give you an unobstructed view and field of work. The best seat is at the front seat next to the pilot. Do avoid back seats unless they have their own windows that can be fully opened. A lot of people underestimate how small the aeroplane like a Cessna 172 is. You really feel every motion and if there is any turbulence you may get airsick (seasick).
The most important thing in the air is the communication with your pilot and it is always a good idea to sort that out before the flight, or at least before you start shooting. You will have headphones, but some pilots may cut you off when you shoot, as the wind that hits your microphone makes terrible noise in their headsets, so you may use some sign language and gestures by pointing and waving your hand. It helps if you flew with your pilot before, so you understand each other well. Trust me – this will save you a lot of great shots.
Colours of rivers – in Iceland, glacial melt from the top and edges of the glacier from sun activity and environment temperature combines with the active melt from underneath of a glacier provided by the geothermal volcanic activity, as most of Icelandic glaciers are massive ice caps covering one or more volcanoes at the time, thus bursts of volcanic activity may result in massive glacial runoffs or flash floods. Furthermore, slowly moving glaciers grind the bed rock that is then carried away by meltwater as sand and dust-like powder, silt.
In addition, higher temperatures of water is capable of dissolving more of minerals thus acquiring more colours, which differ depending on local geochemistry. As a result, silt particles size and dissolved minerals give Icelandic rivers their amazing range of colours, which can be further enhanced (or changed) by silt particles absorbing some wavelengths of light, reflecting the rest of the colour spectrum that we can see from above.
Icelandic mineral colour chemistry and rhyolite mountains - one of the most spectacular examples of Iceland’s colourful landscape is its rhyolite mountains. Rhyolite is an extrusive (thrown or flown out of volcano) igneous (magmatic) rock formed from magma rich in silica (quartz) and its name originates from Greek word rhýax ("a stream of lava"). The chemical composition of rhyolite rock gives it its wide range of colours from pink and yellow to green and blue. The colours burst into life when rain hits the surface of the mountains, transforming them into a giant natural abstract painting when seen from above. The most famous locations are mountains of Landmannalaugar and Hveradalir area at the Kerlingarfjöll range.
Photo-gear (cameras and lenses) - I typically have two similar camera bodies with me – e.g., a GFX100 with 45-100mm (35-85mm in FF) as a main camera and a second back-up body (GFX50S with a battery grip) with a shorter zoom lens like 32-64mm (23-50 in FF) or longer 100-200mm (80-160 in FF), which I only used a few times over the years when due to turbulence we could not get close enough and I had to shoot from afar.
I always have plenty of spare SD cards with me (I carry a pack of 12 with me, 128Gb (64Gb for GFX50S) high speed formatted in camera cards like Sony Tough G or Sun-Disk Extreme Pro) and six to eight extra spare fully charged batteries. I change the battery as soon as one out of two is about to end, and change one card as soon as it is full when I have the chance to do so. I typically shoot three to four cards in a four to five hour flight (that is about 1.5k of shots) and use two to three spare batteries. The last thing you want is to run out of power or memory space whilst shooting over an amazing place.
I used to have a 63mm f2.8 (50mm in FF) prime in my bag, it is a great sharp lens, but I have replaced it with the 80mm f1.7 (~64mm in FF) lens after analysing metadata of many thousands of shots. I learnt that the 70-80mm (55-65 in FF) focal length is the one that I most often use for my frames. Importantly, the 80mm lens does not have a moving front element, as focusing is internal, and thus does not “hunt” or “freeze” when you shoot against the wind. In fact, the wind force is a problem when you are in the air, and I remove all lens hoods for the same reason. It’s a good thing that dust is blown off your lens too. I do not use UV lens protectors, filters or polarisers as I want the best possible image quality I can get.
Glacial kettles or glacier pools - typically can be seen on Icelandic outwash plains and near the edges of a glacier. They appear when large blocks of ice break off from the retreating glacier, embed into moraine and then slowly melt to form a pond. Their colours come from the amount (and mineral type) of silt sediment and/or depth. Typically, the clearer the pool’s water is, or the deeper it is, the bluer its water. Depending on the light glacial kettles have milky beige/grey colours, followed by greyish blue or cyan when the pool is filled with a smaller size of silt particles and finally deep blue or emerald or green when it is filled with clear water. Glacial kettles at the edge of a glacier look like a kaleidoscope of colours. One can also easily see the flow direction of the glacial melt through the large system of kettles near the glacier’s edge starting from beige/grey and ending in saturated hues of blue.
Camera and lenses set up - I usually set my camera to a manual focus, pre-focus on something less important, as everything is far away and pretty much in one focal plane. An automatic focus on my GFX100 and GFX50S works very well if there is enough texture and contrast of colours below me on the ground and works less well when shooting river patterns due to light reflections.
I typically shoot with a f5.6 - f8 on medium format like GFX100 and 1/1000 shutter speed, as less than 1/1000 may cause a blur. Saying that, I did shoot with a 1/800 and even 1/640 shutter speed with the GFX100 (which has in body stabilisation) but those shots only work well for lateral horizontal type of shots for landscapes that are in the distance. For top-down shots, the faster the shutter speed you use the better. If the light is poor and your lenses are pro-grade, you can also shoot wide open for top-down shots – e.g., you can go to f2.8 or f4.
To get a straight down shot the aircraft must bank (make sharp turn), clockwise if you are seating on the starboard (right) side or anticlockwise if you are on the portside. That way you (and your lens) see the place of interest without any obstructions. It is an odd feeling at first and often turbulence adds to the experience. It may become a challenge to keep your lens from knocking into the parts of the aeroplane or the sides of the open window, but one gets used to it. I usually tend to get my head, shoulder and camera holding "shutter" arm out of the window, with my other hand controlling the aperture and zoom - I use wonderful Fujifilm cameras with dials and lenses that have aperture rings. Sometimes I lean further out of the window to take a shot straight ahead or back. I do not use the LCD screen on the back of my cameras due to reflections, so I shoot with my eye to the viewfinder.
Braided rivers - due to rapid and frequent variation of water levels in Icelandic rivers, the amount of water, sand and silt they carry from glaciers towards the ocean, many form amazing, braided structures once they are given enough space (e.g., entering a large area with weak banks after cutting though a canyon) to slow down and form multiple intertwined channels divided by temporary islands, eyots and bars. Braided rivers, share some morphological features, but also have a distinctive set of unit forms and most of the main rivers can be recognised by their unique patterns of braiding due to the sediment type (and amount) they carry and local landscape through which they flow. Combined with the mentioned above colours given by silt and minerals Icelandic rivers make a unique show, especially when seen from the air as endless patterns of abstract natural art.
During the flight - a typical photography flight could be anything between three to six hours long depending on the type of aircraft and fuel capacity, location and weather – winds, dodging rain or snow, avoiding areas with heavy turbulence etc. Photographs are taken mainly between 1,000 and 3,000 ft altitude, although on occasion it could be higher, e.g., when you shoot over the top of a large glacier.
Get one zoom or one prime lens that suits you best, as you will not have much chance/time to change lenses, thus if you feel you might need a second lens – get a second body with it, so you can grab and use it quickly. For me, the GFX100 body with a GF45-100mm covers pretty much 95% of my needs and having the second body is more of a precaution. I only once had a “malfunction” of my camera in five years when the GFX50S with a 45-100mm got frozen, literally, so I just grabbed the second (GFX50S) with a 32-64mm. We were at -10°C, both windows open and late October winds over Hofsjökull freezing, both us and our cameras.
Do remove the lens hoods, they take too much air pressure and can knock your lens off in the wind whilst flying. The worst case scenario is that the hoods will get ripped off your lens and fly away. If you are in helicopter, you really do not want that to happen. It is best not to use wide lenses - you will have parts of the aeroplane and/or helicopter in all of your shots. Make sure that your spare batteries are easy to reach in your pocket and not in the backpack on the backseat. The same goes for SD cards.
Shoot pretty much everything you think is interesting or you may miss it completely, since it is all goes very fast. If you use zoom lens – try to get a bit of a wider frame - you will have better ability to crop later on. Be prepared that if you lean out of the window then wind will hit your hands, camera and your eyes knocking tears out and you may not see clearly. You will have headphones on you, which will be also moved by the wind and if you wear glasses they will move too. I use a neoprene retainer strap (sailing type) for my glasses.
It will help if you have a strap on each camera and wrap it around your hand, I typically loop the belt/strap over my wrist, so that the camera is secure. I prefer soft and thinner leather belts/straps instead of the manufacturer’s issue type, as they are more flexible. Sometimes, if the doors are taken off, the camera(s) could also be secured by carabin(s) to the helicopter/aeroplane’s internal frame and your other gear should also be secured.
Finally, depending on where and when you fly make sure you wear relevant clothes. Remember that the wind and temperature fall with altitude. Avoid bulky “Michelin man” jackets and parkas, they can get even bigger with the wind, and can make your time in the aeroplane, where you do not have much space, awkward. Go for layers to minimise your “volume” and maintain your ability to move inside the plane with wool, fleece, goose down vests and a flexible wind proof shell. I use cut-off fingers sailing gloves during summer flights and soft napa leather gloves lined with wool in winter, thin and soft enough to operate my camera and lens.
The choice of location comes from planning of course, but often, especially due to Icelandic weather; the plans change on the spot or get cancelled completely. Iceland is unique, as it has a great variety of landscape types within a relatively short distance from each other. You can have deserts, volcanos, glaciers, mountains, braided rivers and lakes, seacoast and highlands all in one flight. It is like a continent in miniature and what an amazing "continent" it is.
None of my flights and photographs in Iceland would be possible without Haraldur, I will feel his loss for the rest of my life. To get a glimpse of his life-vision see an amazing small video made by super-talented Mika Aberra - Volcano Pilot on Vimeo.
I hope you will enjoy your flights and aerial photography as much as I do! Andro